A - Air Filter
B - Oil Filter
C - Fuel Filter
D - Engine Oil
Change oil every 0.000 miles.
Check owners manual for specific oil recommendation.
Check oil level when engine is cold and with vehicle on level ground.
E - Radiator Fluid
Check the fluid level in the plastic “overflow reservoir” and
the actual level of coolant inside the radiator.
You should be able to visually see the coolant level inside the radiator
when the engine is cold.
Only remove the radiator cap after engine has cooled.
If the antifreeze is dirty or rusty colored, or has lost its over
heating/anti-freezing capability it should be flushed and replaced.
Regular life antifreeze is bright green in color, and the newer
“extended” longer life antifreeze is red in color. Either type can be used but should not be mixed
together.
Drain and flush old coolant from the radiator and reservoir bottle,
inspect the heater and radiator hoses and clamps for replacement, and install a new
radiator cap.
F - Brakes-Pads/Fluid
Check the brake fluid level.
The fluid level should only need to be slightly topped off occasionally.
If more than 2 oz. of fluid is needed, the brake system should be inspected for leaks and
component wear.
Add only the recommended type of brake fluid as listed in the
owner’s manual.
Do not add any other fluid to the brake fluid reservoir, and keep all
foreign objects like fingers out of the fluid. The fluid in the reservoir should be clear
in appearance and free of dirt and debris.
Brake fluid retains moisture and should be flushed and re-bled (remove
the air from the system) to keep brakes working effectively.
Check brake pad and shoe wear. Don’t wait until you hear grinding
noises to have the brakes inspected. Have brakes checked periodically for wear. Some
warning signs of brake problems are: noises when brakes are applied, the steering wheel
shakes when brakes are applied, needing to add more than 2 oz of brake fluid to the brake
fluid reservoir, a soft or squishy brake pedal, or the brake pedal goes to the floor
slowly while brakes are applied.
G - Power Steering Fluid
Check level. Power steering fluid can either be pink or clear in color,
usually only a very small amount is needed to top off fluid level. If more than 2 oz. is
needed, have the system checked for leaks or wear.
Power steering fluid just like any other fluid becomes dirty and
contaminated and should be replaced with clean fluid periodically.
Dirty power steering fluid can cause the power steering pump or the
power steering gear assemblies to fail and can cause premature wear to occur.
H - Transmission Fluid
Inspect: Usually the transmission fluid level is checked with the engine hot and in
park, and with engine running. Check your owner’s manual for proper fluid type and
proper fluid level inspection procedures. Automatic transmission fluid is usually pink in
color. Most standard "stick" shift transmissions will have a drain plug to
service the fluid. Some stick shift transmissions use engine oil as a lubricant; consult
your owner’s manual when servicing. It could also be a good idea to have the
replacement fluid type information available for the repair shop.
Replace: Consult vehicle owner manual for proper fluid type and service interval.
If applicable, replace the internal automatic transmission filter or clean the re-usable
screen when changing the transmission fluid. A transmission pan gasket will also be
required during a filter change. Some newer model vehicles require special additives and
detergents, consult owner's manual for fluid specifications.
I - Washer Fluid
Check level. Anti-freezing and water repelling additives can also be added to the washer
fluid reservoir. Not only will washer fluid aid in removing dirt from the windshield, but
also it will act as a lubricant to prolong the life of the wiper blade. Adding rubbing
alcohol to the washer fluid can be harmful to the rubber on the wiper blades.
J - Differential Fuild
Inspect: The rear differential (commonly referred to as the rear end) fluid or
grease should be checked during each routine oil change and topped off as needed with the
fluid prescribed in the owner’s manual.
Replace: Drain and flush the rear end fluid periodically to remove any metal
filings that have normally accumulated in the differential housing. Replace the
differential cover gasket and add any recommended supplemental additive prescribed in the
owner’s manual.
K - Battery
Check terminals and cables, loose or dirty battery cables are a
common “no start” condition. Cable ends and battery terminals should be cleaned
with a wire brush and light sand paper periodically to remove any corrosion build up.
Battery terminal protecting spray coatings can also be helpful in reducing the formation
of corrosion.
Caution: remove all metal objects like wrist watches and rings before working around a
battery, a spark or fire can occur.
BatteryLoad - Battery "load" is how much load or drain can be placed on the
electrical system before the battery begins to discharge itself. Think of it as how much
electricity the battery can store before having to be recharged. It is not uncommon for
batteries to go completely "flat" or discharged without ever giving a warning
signal to the operator. Have the auto mechanic check the car battery condition and load
levels at every oil change interval if the battery is over 2 years old to ensure the
battery will not leave you unexpectedly stranded.
A weak battery that is not storing enough power will cause the alternator to work harder
and possibly cause premature alternator failure. Dirty or corroded battery terminals can
severely reduce the lifespan of the battery and alternator. A quick and inexpensive
battery check and cable inspection can be done at each oil change. The replacement battery
should be the same size, have the same battery cable connections, and should be the same
electrical capacity as the original battery.
L - Spark Plugs
Worn or faulty spark plugs can cause misfire, poor fuel mileage, loss of power, and slow
or extended starting time. Spark plug wires should be replaced when replacing spark plugs.
M - Spark Plug Wires
Spark plug wires should be replaced when replacing spark plugs to get maximum performance
and life expectancy of spark plugs.
N - Light Bulbs
Save yourself the hassle of failing a vehicle inspection or being pulled over by the
police for a tail or brake light bulb out. Have all lights checked when performing a
regular engine oil change.
O - Distributor Cap-Ignition Rotor
These items should be inspected/replaced when replacing spark plugs and spark plug wires,
or when a “major tune-up” is called for. The distributor cap is where the other
end of the spark plug wires connect to, and the ignition rotor in underneath the
distributor cap. Some newer model vehicles do not have a distributor at all. These cars
are designed with Distributors Ignition Systems (D.I.S.), and therefore do not have these
parts.
P - Belts
Check for worn or loose belts. Belts should be replaced if they are worn on the
edges, frayed, or cracked. Do not spray silicone or WD40-type chemicals on a noisy belt,
it will usually just make the noise worse.Check the tension on each belt, and see if
anything is rubbing or coming in contact with it.
Q - Timing Belt
Replace as scheduled if applicable for your vehicle. Timing belts are commonly used on
Japanese cars. The timing belt is a rubber belt that drives the engine’s internal
components. The timing belt is not easily visible and should be replaced at the indicated
mileage and time not on visual wear like a normal drive belt. If the timing belt
breaks, the engine stops and costly internal engine damage can occur. The water pump on
some vehicles is driven by the timing belt, and should be replaced when replacing the
timing belt. Consult owner’s manual or ask the repair shop if this is the case on
your car.
R - Shock Absorvers
Inspect: Check for fluid leaks around the shock. Some shocks are filled with oil
and a visible fluid leak can be detected. Excessive bumpy ride, leaning, or swaying in one
direction more than normal on brake application or around turns can also indicate worn or
damaged shocks.
Replace: Replace all four shocks/struts at the same time to get maximum benefit and
drivability. In some cases a wheel alignment should be performed after new struts are
installed.
S - Steering Weel
Alignment
The front end components of a vehicle can be out of alignment, but not give any indication
or warning signs. Shimmying and shakes in the front end are usually not caused by the car
being “out of alignment,” but by out of balance or lack of rotation with the
tires. The vehicle pulling to one side, or unusual tire wear are the two most common
“out of alignment” warning signs. Check the alignment and all wearable parts in
the front end periodically. Always have the front end aligned when replacing tires. A
front end alignment is commonly referred to as a "four wheel alignment" these
days. Some adjustments to the rear alignment are available on most newer model vehicles,
thus the term four wheel alignment.
T - CV Boots and CV Joints
Used mostly on front wheel drive cars, Constant Velocity (CV) joints are shafts that
connect the transmission to the wheels with knuckle joints on either end of the shaft. The
shafts provide the power to turn the wheels by linking the transmission to the wheel.
There are two shafts and four joints on most front wheel drive cars. CV boots are made of
pliable rubber to cover the CV joint. Torn CV boots allow grease meant to lubricate the
joint to escape, and allows dirt and debris to enter inside the joint. A worn CV joint
usually produces a clicking noise from the wheel area on hard turns.
U - Drive Shaft/U-Joints
Rear wheel drive cars and trucks have drive shafts in place of CV joints that are
found on front wheel drive cars. The drive shaft links the transmission to the rear
differential to provide power to turn the wheels. Most drive shafts have two or three
U-joints connecting the shaft to the transmission and rear differential. The shaft and
joints should be checked for wear during regular engine oil changes. Some U-joints can and
should be greased during the “grease job” portion of the oil change.
V - Radiator and Heater Hoses
Inspect: To check for leaks or bulges with the engine cold, squeeze the radiator
hoses with one hand at all points along the hose. If soft spots, bulges, or a
"cracking feeling" is identified, replace ALL water hoses at the same time.
Replace: Replace all water hoses including heater, bypass, and radiator hoses at
the same time. The coolant and radiator cap should also be replaced at this time.
W - Wiper Blades
Inspect: Check wiper blades for wear and washer fluid level during a regular oil
and filter change. Don’t make the mistake of never thinking about replacing or
inspecting the wiper blades until you really need them.
Replace: Some wiper blades are different lengths for driver and passenger side.
Measure old blades before replacing with new ones. Some manufactures like offer different
replacement wiper blade types (i.e. for snow and ice, off road, and severe duty).
X - Tires
Inspect: Check pressure and tread wear. Check air pressure cold unless otherwise
described in the owner’s manual. Inspect tires for uneven tread wear, punctures,
bulges, or cuts in sidewall of the tire. When rotating or replacing tires the best tires
should go to the front of the car. Some tires
are “directional” and should be kept on the same side of the car turning in the
direction indicated on the side of the tire.
Rotate and balance: Routine rotation and balancing can greatly extend the life of
your tires. Most front end "shake and shimmy" complaints can be attributed to
out of balance, or out of round tires. Ask your mechanic if he would inspect the brakes
for free when rotating and balance tires.
Tires should be rotated and balanced every 15,000 miles.
Y - A/C System
Air conditioning refrigerant commonly known as "Freon" should be checked for
proper pressures and level of refrigerant oil periodically. Low Freon and refrigerant oil
levels can cause premature wear on air compressors, and decrease overall performance of
the a/c system. Although the a/c system is a sealed unit, it is not uncommon to have to
add small amounts of refrigerant (Freon) periodically due to small leaks and seepage.
Freon is a gas that is under high pressure and should only be serviced by a trained
professional. Four Seasons Temperature Control offers a large array of a/c and heating
parts for cars, trucks, off road and heavy equipment.
Z - Exterior Care
Regular car washes removes chemicals that get deposited onto the paint surface, and dull
the layer of "clear coating" that is meant to protect the paint and help promote
shine and luster. Car wash soap should be used and not dish or household soaps, as their
chemical makeup can damage the clear coat. Semi-annual waxing of the exterior paint
surface will help to protect this important clear coat.
- - Misc |
Maintenance Items