Maintenance

 
 

  • OIL CHANGE

You will need:

1. An oil filter wrench
2. An adjustable wrench or a socket wrench
3. Two empty plastic milk cartons, or other empty container
4. A funnel
5. Some rags
6. New oil
7. New oil filter
8. A shallow plastic or metal pan that will hold at least 2 gallons (Cat litter pan works well.)
9. Wheel blocks
10. Safety glasses
11. A jack and a pair of jack stands or a pair of car ramps.
12. Rubber gloves (Optional)

Grab your drain pan and wrench and slide under the car. Locate the oil drain plug on the oil pan.

Place your drain pan under the plug and unscrew the plug (counter-clockwise) with the wrench. Make sure you have a good fit and do not round off the drain plug. If it proves stubborn, get the proper size socket and ratchet or a 6-point box wrench.

As soon as you completely unscrew the drain plug, the oil will come out in a rush, so be careful. Like I said before... chances are the plug will fall into the pan along with the oil. Don't worry when it happens.

When all the oil has drained into the pan, fish out the plug and screw it back in. Tighten it firmly, but not so hard that you strip the threads. I don't know how many drain plugs I have had to repair because people think you need to put 50,000 foot-pounds of torque on a drain plug.

Always change the filter whenever you change the oil. I could never see the sense in changing the oil and leaving a quart of dirty oil in the engine.

You'll be able to get to the old filter from either above or below the car. Place the oil filter wrench around the filter's body. There are two types of oil filter wrench, a cup type and a strap type. The cup type fits over the end of the filter like a socket and has a 3/8" or 1/2" square hole for fitting on a ratchet. The strap type fits around the body of the filter and will work on any filter. If you plan on doing all of your filter changes, invest in the cup type for your filter. With the strap type, grab the filter as close to the threaded end as you can.

The old filter may be a little tough to crack loose, but once it does, it will spin right off. Unscrew it completely and put it aside, it will be full of oil. Wipe the surface of the oil filter housing to make sure the old oil filter gasket did not stick to it and that it is clean and dirt free.

Take some of the new oil and coat the gasket of the new filter with it. This insures the new gasket will slip into place properly.

Install the new filter. In filters that sit straight up and down, I usually fill with new oil. Tighten the filter firmly, spin it hand tight and then another 1/4 turn by hand. Do not tighten it with the oil filter wrench. All you'll do is distort the gasket and cause a leak.

On top of the engine locate the oil fill cap. It will usually say "Oil" or "Oil Fill" on it. Most of the time it's on top of a valve cover. Unscrew it and pour in the proper amount and type of oil recommended for your vehicle. Look in your owners' manual for the proper type of oil and the location of the oil fill if it's not obvious.

After you have the oil in, replace the oil fill cap and wipe up some of the oil you might have spilled.

Start the engine and with the engine running, carefully check around the filter for any leaks. A leak will appear as some seepage at the oil filter connection or on the filter. If there is a leak, tighten up the oil filter a little more. If no leaks are found, shut off the engine and jack the car down. Once the car is on level ground again, recheck the oil and make sure it is at the full mark. Do not over fill the oil, that will cause engine damage.

  • REPLACING THE FUEL FILTER

You will need:

1. Phillips and straight blade screwdrivers
2. Open end or line wrenches
3. A jack and a pair of jack stands or #4 if required
4. Drive on ramps (if required)
5. Wheel chocks (if required)
6. Pliers
7. Safety glasses
8. Fuel fitting tools (if required)
9. Plugs for capping the fuel lines

Compare the new fuel filter with the old fuel filter, and make sure you position it in the same way so that the fuel is flowing in the right direction. Most times there will be an arrow on the fuel filter showing you which direction the fuel flows. Put the assembly together in reverse of the way you took it apart. Before you do, though, take a quick look at the new fuel filter. Again, a little oil or white grease on the fitting will help the hoses slide on easier.

You'll see there are two tubes coming off the fuel filter where the hoses attach. They have little nubs or ridges near the ends. Make sure to slide the rubber lines onto the fuel filter as far past the nubs as you can get them, ideally up against the fuel filter body. Position the hose clamps between the nub and the fuel filter body.

The clamps used on the fuel lines are special clamps designed to seal the hose to the fuel filter fittings. They do not cut into the fuel hose and can withstand the higher fuel pressure. Ideally they should be replaced with the new fuel filter. Do not use the worm type "mini-clamps". They will damage the hoses and a fuel leak will develop.

One last type of fitting I want to talk about is the good old "nut and bolt" type fitting. This fitting just requires two wrenches to remove. You will see a hex fitting on the filter. You use one wrench on this hex fitting to hold the fuel filter while you remove the fuel line fitting.

Care must be taken to not cross thread or over tighten the fitting. Make sure the fittings are tight enough not to leak, but that's it. You can use a dab of sealer or Teflon tape to help the seal. If you use Teflon tape, don't use too much because the excess could get inside the lines and block a fuel injector. Do not use any type of RTV silicone sealer because gasoline will dissolve it away.

I would recommend using a special line type wrench. A line wrench is thicker than a regular open-end wrench and it covers 3/4's of the fitting, versus the 1/2 coverage of a standard wrench, reducing the chances of rounding the fitting. The extra thickness spreads the turn force over a wider area, also reducing the chances of a rounded fitting. They are very useful when working with brake lines as well. It might not be a bad idea to pick up a set.

Okay, after you have everything reassembled and secure, crank the engine a few times with the ignition system disabled, if you can, until fuel pressure builds up. Then look over the fuel filter and fuel lines no make sure there are no big leaks. If everything is okay, start the engine and let it run for a few minutes, again checking for leaks.

Do this at least once per year.
  • REPLACING THE AIR FILTER

You will need:

1. Phillips and straight blade screwdrivers
2. Assorted wrenches
3. Pliers
4. New air filter
5. New breather filter

You should change your air filter every 15,000 miles or one year. If you live in an especially dusty or dirty area, you may need to change it more often. To see if your air filter needs to be replaced, shine a flash light from the inside out. If you can't see any light or very little light, it needs to be replaced. Change the breather filter and check the PCV at the same time.

If you have an older car, the air filter is in a big round housing on top of the engine. These are very simple to change. Simply unscrew the wing nut holding the cover down and lift it off. There may be three or four clips holding down the cover as well. Just unsnap the clips as well.

All you need do now is remove the old air filter and install the new one. Make sure it is the right air filter for the car. If it is too big, the cover will not go back on and if it is too small, the cover will not seal to the top of the filter.

Now, change the breather element. Most breather elements come in a plastic holder with a fitting that goes through the side of the air filter housing. There is a clip around the fitting on the outside. Just pull the clip off, replace the breather filter and pop the clip back on. Replace the air filter cover and tighten it snugly, bit overly tight.

In newer cars, the air filters are generally rectangular in shape and involve a little more work to get to. Look for a rectangular shaped housing under the hood. It will usually be located on one of the fender wells or over the radiator area. On most Chrysler 4 cylinder engines, it's located between the engine and the firewall.

Cover attachments vary; on some there will be four or six screws around the outside edge. There may be four clips or a combination of both. Use the appropriate tools to open the cover and remove the air filter. Be careful not to let any dirt or debris fall into the bottom of the housing. When you install the new air filter, reattach the air filter housing and be careful not to over tighten the holding screws.

Air filters of this type do not have a breather filter since the PCV inlet is below the air filter. You should still check the PCV and be sure it's in good shape.

This is one of the easiest things you can do and it will reward you with a smoother running and more fuel-efficient engine.
  • REPLACING AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID

The recommended interval for changing transmission fluid is usually every 30,000 miles. This task is slightly more difficult than an oil change or a radiator flush, but you can tackle it if you approach it step by step. You may want to check a service manual for your vehicle beforehand to see whether you need to know about any special procedures or precautions. Make sure to buy the right type of transmission fluid and replacement parts. Using a fluid that's not compatible with your vehicle could damage it.

You will need:

1. Transmission filter and gasket
2. Transmission fluid
3. Gasket adhesive
4. Extra-large catch basin
5. Clean rags
6. Wrenches
7. Screwdrivers
8. Safety glasses
9. Cat litter for soaking up spills

Locate the transmission pan under the vehicle. You may have to remove a section of the exhaust system and disconnect the oxygen sensor in order to access the pan.

The transmission pan does not have a drain plug. The bottom of the pan must be partly removed in order to drain the fluid. Once it's drained, the pan can be disassembled completely so that a new transmission-fluid filter and gasket can be installed.

Place an extra-large catch basin directly beneath the pan.

Remove the bolts from three sides of the pan. The fourth side remains attached, forming a hinge that allows the pan bottom to tip down and drain the fluid.

Tip the pan, allowing the fluid to drain into the catch basin. This part of the job is messy.

Remove the rest of the bolts and remove the pan completely. Empty any remaining fluid into the catch basin.

Remove the old gasket, and clean the upper surfaces of any fluid or residual rubber from the old gasket. You may want to use a parts washer to clean the pan thoroughly.

Make sure the magnet strip remains inside the pan. The magnet picks up stray metallic particles that can end up in the transmission fluid through normal wear.

Install the new gasket on the pan. To get a sure grip and make installation easier, place gasket adhesive around the holes in the rim of the pan before putting the gasket in place.

Remove the old filter with a socket wrench or a nut-driver. Keep the old O-rings so they can be used on the new filter.

Lubricate and install the O-rings on the new filter, and install the new filter. Reinstall the pan.

Add new transmission fluid at the fill opening. Check your service manual or owner's manual to determine the type and quantity of fluid for your vehicle. Do not overfill.

Take the vehicle for a drive and then, with the engine idling, check the transmission-fluid level with the dipstick. Check underneath the vehicle for leaks.

  • Preparing your vehicle for winter

Mechanical failure - an inconvenience any time it occurs - can be deadly in the winter. Preventive maintenance is a must. Besides, a well-maintained vehicle is more enjoyable to drive, will last longer, and could command a higher resale price.

Some of the following tips can be performed by any do-it-yourselfer; others require the skilled hands of an auto technician. Follow the manufacturer's recommended service schedules.

Engine Performance - Get engine drive ability problems (hard starts, rough idling, stalling, diminished power, etc.) corrected at a good repair shop. Cold weather makes existing problems worse. Replace dirty filters - air, fuel, PCV, etc.

Fuel - Put a bottle of fuel deicer in your tank once a month to help keep moisture from freezing in the fuel line. Note that a gas tank which is kept filled helps keep moisture from forming.

Oil - Change your oil and oil filter as specified in your manual - more often (every 3,000 miles) if your driving is mostly stop-and-go or consists of frequent short trips.

Cooling Systems - The cooling system should be completely flushed and refilled about every 24 months. The level, condition, and concentration of the coolant should be checked periodically. (A 50/50 mix of anti-freeze and water is usually recommended.) DIYers, never remove the radiator cap until the engine has thoroughly cooled! The tightness and condition of drive belts, clamps, and hoses should be checked by a pro.

Windshield Wipers - Replace old blades. If your climate is harsh, purchase rubber-clad (winter) blades to fight ice build-up. Stock up on windshield washer solvent - you'll be surprised how much you use. Carry an ice-scraper.

Heater/Defroster - The heater and defroster must be in good working condition for passenger comfort and driver visibility.

Battery - The only accurate way to detect a weak battery is with professional equipment. Routine care: Scrape away corrosion from posts and cable connections; clean all surfaces; re-tighten all connections. If battery caps are removable, check fluid level monthly.Avoid contact with corrosive deposits and battery acid. Wear eye protection and rubber gloves.

Lights - Inspect all lights and bulbs; replace burned out bulbs; periodically clean road grime from all lenses. To prevent scratching, never use a dry rag.

Exhaust System - Your vehicle should be placed on a lift and the exhaust system examined for leaks. The trunk and floor boards should be inspected for small holes. Exhaust fumes can be deadly. Cold weather will only make existing problems worse. A breakdown - never pleasant - can be deadly in the winter.

Tires - Worn tires will be of little use in winter weather. Examine tires for remaining tread life, uneven wearing, and cupping; check the sidewalls for cuts and nicks. Check tire pressures once a month. Let the tires "cool down" before checking the pressure. Rotate as recommended. Don't forget your spare, and be sure the jack is in good condition.

Carry emergency gear: gloves, boots, blankets, flares, a small shovel, sand or kitty litter, tire chains, and a flash light. Put a few "high-energy" snacks in your glove box.

  • PREPARING YOUR VEHICLE FOR SUMMER

Some of the following tips are easy to do; others require a skilled auto technician.

Follow the manufacturer's recommended service schedules.

Air Conditioning - A marginally operating system will fail in hot weather. Have the system examined by a qualified technician.

Cooling System - The greatest cause of summer breakdowns is overheating. The cooling system should be completely flushed and refilled about every 24 months. The level, condition, and concentration of the coolant should be checked periodically. (A 50/50 mix of anti-freeze and water is usually recommended.) Never remove the radiator cap until the engine has thoroughly cooled! The tightness and condition of drive belts, clamps, and hoses should be checked by a pro.

Oil - Change your oil and oil filter as specified in your manual - more often (every 3,000 miles) if you make frequent short jaunts, extended trips with lots of luggage, or tow a trailer.

Engine Performance - Replace other filters (air, fuel, PCV, etc.) as recommended - more often in dusty conditions. Get engine drive-ability problems (hard starts, rough idling, smiling, diminished power, etc.) corrected at a good shop.

Windshield Wipers - A dirty windshield causes eye fatigue and can pose a safety hazard. Replace worn blades and get plenty of windshield washer solvent.

Tires - Have your tires rotated about every 5,000 miles. Check tire pressures once a month; let the tires "cool down" first. Don't forget your spare, and be sure the jack is in good condition. Examine tires for tread life, uneven wearing, and cupping; check the sidewalls for cuts and nicks. An alignment is warranted that if there's uneven tread wear or if your vehicle pulls to one side.

Brakes - Brakes should be inspected as recommended in your manual, or sooner if you notice pulsation, grabbing, noises, or longer stopping distance. Minor brake problems should be corrected promptly.

Battery - Batteries can fail any time of year. The only accurate way to detect a weak battery is with professional equipment. Routine care: Scrape away corrosion from posts and cable connections; clean all surfaces; re-tighten all connections. If battery caps are removable, check the fluid level monthly. Avoid contact with corrosive deposits and battery acid. Wear eye protection and rubber gloves.

Lights - Inspect all lights and bulbs; replace burned out bulbs; periodically clean dirt and insects from all lenses. To prevent scratching, never use a dry rag.

Emergencies - Carry some basic tools - ask a technician for suggestions. Also include a first aid kit, flares, and a flashlight. Consider buying a cellular phone or CB radio.

  • CLEANING THE BATTERY

You will need:

1. Baking soda and stiff brush
2. Rubber gloves
3. Wrench to fit cable clamp
4. Wrench to remove battery
5. Waterproof grease

After loosening the cable clamps and battery holder, remove the battery from the vehicle.

Clean the dirt and oxidation from the top of the battery using baking soda and water.

While the battery is out, clean the cable clamps until shiny with the #535 brass brush.

Re-install the battery. Re-attach clamps and cover the connection with grease.