REMOVAL

Remove about half the brake fluid from the master cylinder and put it into a sealed container. Dispose of it properly. Do not reuse old brake fluid; always use fresh brake fluid from a sealed container. Brake fluid will eat paint so do not get it on your vehicle's finish. If you do, wash it off (brake fluid is water soluble) with plenty of water.

Using a lug wrench, crack the wheel lugs loose one or two turns. Do not remove them completely.

Jack one side of the vehicle up and support it with a jack stand. Do the same for the opposite side.

Remove the lugs and take the wheels off.

To remove the calipers:

Floating Caliper:

Remove the two caliper guide pins or bolts. Look at the locations and positions of any bushings or guides so they can be reinstalled properly.

Rock the caliper back and forth to push the piston back enough to slide the caliper off.

Remove the caliper. Use a large C-clamp and push on the inboard pad to move the piston back into the caliper. Do it slow and steady. If you did not remove half the brake fluid, make an appointment to have your vehicle repainted.

Sliding Caliper:

A support key or retaining clip holds the caliper to the caliper bridge. Remove the retaining bolt or screw holding the key and drive the key out with a suitable tool. Note the position of any springs or clips before you remove them. The retainers will simply lift off. Note the position of the retainers before you remove them. Remove the caliper.

Remove the caliper. Use a large C-clamp and push on the inboard pad to move the piston back into the caliper. Do it slow and steady. If you did not remove half the brake fluid, make an appointment to have your vehicle repainted. Fixed Caliper:

Remove the caliper mounting bolts only if the pads won't come out the back of the caliper.

Push back the piston before removing the old pads. If you did not remove half the brake fluid, make an appointment to have your vehicle repainted. Check the rotor for scores, rusting or pitting. It is recommended that the rotors be resurfaced to remove any imperfections and true up the braking surface to prevent brake pulsations.

Remove the pads from the calipers:

Fixed Caliper:

Remove any pins or retainers (push pads back and pull them out).

Sliding Caliper:

Separate the pads from the caliper. The inner pad must be clipped to the piston. The outer pad may be pinned, clipped or pressed tightly on the caliper. Some pads may remain on the adapter or anchor when the caliper is removed. Clean the caliper mounting surfaces with a wire brush and remove all the rust and dirt. The sliding surfaces must be as clean as possible for proper brake operation. Wet down the area with water to prevent dust. Allow parts to dry.

INSTALLATION

Install the new brake pads in the reverse order of removal. Make sure any shims, clips and anti-rattle springs are in place. Some brake pads have ears that need to be crimped to the caliper when installed. You can use a large pair of Channel locks or a hammer to crimp the ears. If they can move, they will squeal. You can apply a high temperature, copper based grease to the back of the pads to help prevent squealing and transfer heat from the pads. Do not get any grease on the pad material itself.

Replace the caliper on its mount and reinstall the guide pins, retainers or clips that you have removed. Use some of the high temperature, copper based grease to lubricate sliding surfaces. Some retaining keys need to be tapped into place with a hammer.

Tighten all bolts being careful not to over tighten. Never use standard "hardware store" bolts. If you have to replace hardware, get the proper parts from the auto parts store. Special high-tensile hardware are used exclusively in this application.

• BRAKE BLEEDING METHODS

There are three methods of bleeding that can be done without prohibitively expensive equipment: manual brake bleeding, vacuum brake bleeding, and gravity brake bleeding. Whether bleeding a master cylinder on a bench, or a brake caliper or wheel cylinder on the car or truck, the principle is the same. You want to force air and fluid out and add new fluid, all while preventing fresh air from entering the system.

Regardless of the method you choose, you'll quickly realize the trick is to keep the brake fluid moving in only one direction; from the master cylinder through to the brake calipers or wheel cylinders. Be sure to keep topping up the master cylinder with brake fluid as you bleed each wheel and after you are finished to prevent it from running low and pulling fresh air into the system. When the system is full of clean brake fluid and there is no air trapped inside, the brake pedal should be high and firm.

Method 1: Manual Bleeding:

Manual brake bleeding is the most common method of bleeding brakes; however, you will need to enlist the help of an assistant. With your assistant sitting in the driver's seat, repeat the following six steps a number of times on each brake until you are sure there is no air trapped in the system. Use a narrow block of wood behind the pedal to prevent it from travelling all the way to the floor. Lastly, place a three foot piece of vinyl hose on the end of the bleeder screw to direct old fluid into a plastic container.

Instruct your assistant to pump the brake pedal for thirty seconds.

Instruct your assistant to press and hold the brake pedal firmly.

Open a bleeder screw and let the air and old fluid escape.

Close the bleeder screw.

Instruct your assistant to release the brake pedal.

Wait fifteen seconds.

Method 2: Vacuum Bleeding:

Vacuum bleeding has the advantage of being a one-person job, but requires a special tool known as a vacuum tester or brake bleeding kit. The tool is fairly inexpensive and can be ordered online by clicking on the link above. Whereas manual brake bleeding requires you to "push" brake fluid out; the object of vacuum bleeding is to "pull" brake fluid out. Repeat the following three steps on each brake.

Connect the hose from the vacuum tool to the bleeder screw and then open the bleeder screw.

Pump the tool until the fluid leaving the bleeder screw runs clean and is free of bubbles.

Close the bleeder screw and disconnect the vacuum tool hose.

Method 3: Gravity Bleeding:

Gravity bleeding is the easiest method of bleeding brakes. Simply, repeat the following two steps on each brake. Unfortunately, leaving the screw open for any length of time will allow it to absorb moisture. Additionally, air bubbles may be trapped in the system and need to be worked out using a vacuum or pressure bleeding method. The gravity bleeding method can be used when only a brake caliper or wheel cylinder was replaced.

Open one bleeder screw at a time and wait until the air works its way out of the system.

Close the bleeder screw when clean brake fluid runs from the bleeder screw.

Master cylinder:

In most circumstances, you will not need to bleed a master cylinder. This is usually only done when the master cylinder has been replaced or left open for several hours. New master cylinders should be bench bled before being installed on the vehicle.

Regardless of whether you are bench bleeding the cylinder or bleeding it in the vehicle, you will need to make or purchase a set of short brake lines which screw into the master cylinder and loop back up into the reservoir. Use the outlet fittings in place of bleeder screws to bleed the master cylinder. These fittings should be opened while pressing the piston or brake pedal and closed when the piston is allowed to return.

If you are bleeding the master cylinder on a bench, use a round rod inside the master cylinder to press the piston. When finished, install the new master cylinder and bleed each wheel completely.

Bleeder Screws:

Disc brakes are bled through bleeder screws located in the brake calipers. If the bleeder screw is old it may be difficult to remove or loosen without breaking, as the taper of the bleeder screw will seize against its seat in the caliper. Sometimes tapping the caliper near the bleeder screw (but not on the bleeder screw) with a hammer, while trying to turn the screw, will jolt or break the taper.

It is not recommended to use heat to remove the screw as you can damage the seals in the caliper. Drum brakes are bled through the bleeder screw on the back of the wheel cylinder. Like brake calipers, the bleeder screw may be seized in place and difficult to remove.

If a bleeder screw breaks it may be possible to drill it out and retap the threads. Otherwise, a new caliper or wheel cylinder will need to be installed.

Brake Fluid:

You should find three common types of brake fluid at your local auto parts store: DOT3, DOT4, and DOT5. DOT3 is the most common and should also be the cheapest. Unfortunately, DOT3 brake fluid also absorbs moisture the fastest and has the lowest boiling point. DOT4 is also fairly common but is a little more expensive. DOT4 is designed to absorb moisture slower and has a higher boiling point. DOT5 is not as common and is the most expensive. DOT5 does not absorb any moisture and has the highest boiling point.

DOT3 and DOT4 are clear to amber in color, while DOT5 is purple.

The personal at your local auto parts store should be able to determine which type of fluid is required for your vehicle and how much will be required. You can use DOT4 wherever DOT3 is specified, and DOT5 only on cars or trucks not equipped with ABS (unless otherwise indicated in your owner's manual).

If you do choose to switch to a higher quality brake fluid, it is strongly recommended that you perform a complete brake system flush.

Never use a mineral based oil, such as engine oil or transmission fluid, in place of proper brake fluid. Mineral oil will cause all of the rubber parts in the hydraulic system to swell up and leak.

Jack up the car and use jack stands to support the car - NEVER work on a car supported only by the jack.

Remove tires; brake drums; and brake shoes. If the brake shoes are soaked with brake fluid, replace them. Mark the drum to the hub so you can replace it the way it was.

Spray the hydraulic line and fitting with CRC 5-56 or a similar rust penetration spray. You might want to do this first so it has time to work. Put your drip pan underneath it to catch any over flow and brake fluid.

Using the appropriate size line wrench, loosen the hydraulic fitting. I recommend a line wrench because they are designed specifically for working on hydraulic fittings. A standard wrench will work, but the chances of ruining the fitting are greater. Don't try to turn it out in one shot, work it back and forth and spray some CRC 5-56 on it as you work it out. This will keep the line from twisting as you remove the fitting.

Before you take the fitting off completely, remove the two mounting bolts. Then take the fitting off by hand and remove the wheel cylinder. You do this to avoid any possibility of bending the line. As soon as the fitting is off, brake fluid will start to run out. Plug the end of the line with a suitable plug, I use a piece of vacuum line with a bolt in one end.

Note: Some cars use clips or snap rings to attach the wheel cylinders. Most notably GM vehicles. Some applications require special tools to remove and install them.

Now that the fitting is off and the old wheel cylinder is out, you can install the new one.

Start the fitting in the new wheel cylinder and turn it is as far as possible by hand. Then mount it on the backing plate and install and tighten the mounting bolts. Don't go crazy here; you don't want to snap the bolts off.

Once the mounting bolts are tight, tighten the hydraulic fitting.

When you have both wheel cylinders replaced, open the master cylinder and fill it with clean, fresh brake fluid. Then open the bleeders on the wheel cylinders, one at a time, and close them when you see a steady stream of fluid coming out.

Reinstall the brake shoes and drum. Adjust the brakes and then bleed the wheel cylinders. Have someone hold pressure on the brakes and make sure there are no leaks.

In most cases you will need to remove your disc brake calipers and caliper bridge to remove the rotor. If your car has drum brakes, ignore this step.

First remove the bearing cap. This is a press fit and to remove it grab it with your Channelocks and work it back and forth until it pops off. Be careful not to crush it as you remove it.

Once the cap is off you will see a cotter pin, Remove the cotter pin and remove the retainer ring. If your vehicle has a castellated nut, you will not have a retaining ring.

Using your Channelocks or adjustable wrench, remove the nut from the spindle.

Now remove the outer wheel bearing and washer and lay it aside.

Slide the rotor or drum off the spindle. This may be difficult, but it will come off. Don't worry about hurting the grease seal; we're going to replace it anyway.

Now that the rotor or drum is off, use a suitable tool to remove the grease seal and take out the inner wheel bearing.

Using some of the rags wipe all the old grease from inside the hub.

Now we need to remove the bearing races from the hub. Take a punch with a flat narrow tip and place it on the back of the race. Most hubs have gaps in them to expose the back of the race to make removal easier. Tap the race out, alternating from side to side so it comes out evenly and doesn't get cocked in the hub. Once it's out, flip the rotor or drum over and do the same for the other race.

When both races are out, clean the inside of the hub with some rags. Also make sure the spindle is clean as well. You can even use some carburetor cleaner to do a really good job of cleaning. From this point on cleanliness is important. You do not want any dirt, sand or metal chips inside the hub.

Now that everything is clean, we can install the new races and bearings.

Take one of the new races and coat the outside with some wheel bearing grease. This will help it slide into the hub. If you have a race driver, select the proper size and tap the new race into the hub. Make sure you drive it in evenly and do not cock it. If you don't have a race driver, use your hammer to tap the outside of the race to get it started making sure you tap evenly around the race. When it is flush with the hub, use your flat narrow punch and drive it in the rest of the way. Make sure it is fully seated. The sound of the tapping will change when it's seated and you can look from the other side to visually confirm this.

Do the same for the other race.

If you don't have a bearing packer, you will need to pack them by hand. Put a glob of wheel bearing grease in the palm of your hand. Slip the wheel bearing on your index finger like a ring with the wide end facing out. Then tap the bearing into the glob of grease until you see it coming out the other side. When you see it come out turn the whole bearing, don't just rotate it on your finger, and repeat the procedure until the whole bearing has grease coming out the other side. Repeat this for the other bearings.

Okay, now that we have the races installed and the bearings packed, we can put everything back together. Starting with the inner bearing put a bed of grease on the surface of the race and then push the inner wheel bearing into it. Now take your new grease seal and tap it into place, being careful not to bend or distort it. You can use a small block of wood to install it.

Put a coating of grease inside the hub between the two races and on the spindle, don't be too stingy, too much is better than too little. We do this because if any moisture should happen to get inside, the grease will keep the metal from rusting.

Now slide the rotor or drum straight onto the spindle. It should slide on easily. If it doesn't, the bearing is cocked a little. Slide it off and make sure the bearing is sitting flat and try again.

Once it is on, place a bed of grease on the outer race and slide the outer wheel bearing on. Slide the washer on. The washer will probably have a tab that will align with the spindle, make sure that you line them up when you put it in.

Now place the nut on the spindle and tighten it by hand until it won't go anymore. Spin the rotor or drum a few times back and forth and then tighten the nut come more by hand. This insures that the bearings are seated in their races. Do it a couple of times until you can't get it any tighter by hand.

Now tighten the nut 1/4 turn, no more than 16 foot-pounds. If you have a castellated nut, line it up with the hole going through the spindle. Install a NEW cotter pin and fold it over. If you have a retaining ring, place it on the nut and install the cotter pin. Never reuse the old cotter pin and make sure you do install it. Basically this is the only thing holding the front wheel on.